The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've seen individuals concealing heroin or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a informal group of growers who make wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Around the Globe
So far, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Across Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on